Find the fabric’s cleaning code before anything wet touches the chair. Then vacuum with an upholstery attachment, blot fresh spills, and use several light applications of the cleaner the code allows, working from the outside of the stain toward the center. Never use hot water or steam, and rinse out the cleaner’s residue before the fabric dries.

Read the cleaning code first

Most contract upholstery carries a one- or two-letter cleaning code on the chair’s tag, the fabric spec sheet, or the maker’s materials listing. Steelcase defines them this way in its Surface Materials Reference Manual:

Code What it allows What to avoid
W Water-based upholstery shampoo or foam cleaner Over-wetting; dry-cleaning solvents
S Dry-cleaning solvent only Water of any kind; saturating the fabric
WS (also written S-W) Mild detergent shampoo, foam, or dry-cleaning solvent Saturating with liquid
X Vacuuming or light brushing only Both water and solvent cleaners

Two details in that manual matter at home. First, the code covers only the outer fabric, so over-wetting can still damage the filling underneath even on a W fabric. Second, a protective coating or lamination can change the code: a fabric sold as WS may become S or W once it is treated. If the chair came with a care card, it overrides a generic code chart.

If you can’t find a code, treat the fabric as unknown. Haworth recommends pre-testing any cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area for colorfastness, and Herman Miller says to look for spotting, ringing, or dye damage on the test spot before treating the stain itself.

Routine cleaning: vacuum, but not with a brush roll

Herman Miller’s care guides for the Aeron, Embody and SAYL all say the same thing: vacuum fabric as needed with an upholstery attachment, and don’t brush the fabric or use a rotary brush attachment, because brushing can permanently damage the nap. Steelcase also recommends regular vacuuming to pull out dust and lint, and notes that routine maintenance means less frequent deep cleaning.

Mesh backs follow a slightly different rule. Haworth says most seating meshes can be cleaned with a vacuum, and for real soiling suggests a mild detergent solution applied gently while a clean towel supports the mesh from behind, followed by a clean-water rinse. It warns against heavy bristle brushes and excessive heat. If you are still deciding between materials, the mesh vs. fabric care comparison covers how each one handles stains.

Spot cleaning a stain

Speed matters more than strength. Steelcase cites an International Fabricare study that found 20% of stains could no longer be removed after one week and 50% after three weeks. Herman Miller adds that you should soak up a fresh spill with an absorbent cloth right away rather than letting it dry, because a dried stain can set.

The method then depends on what was spilled. Herman Miller’s chair care guides split stains into two groups:

Water-based stains (coffee, soft drinks, juice, milk) on W or WS fabric:

  1. Apply a water-based fabric cleaner, or warm, mildly soapy water, with a damp clean cloth or sponge.
  2. Work it into a light lather or foam so less liquid soaks into the fabric.
  3. Soak up all the remaining solution.
  4. Wipe the area with a clean cloth dipped in cool water to remove residue.
  5. Let the fabric dry completely, then vacuum it.

Oil-based stains (lipstick, grease, salad dressing) on S or WS fabric:

  1. Test a dry-cleaning solution on a hidden area first.
  2. Apply it with light, quick strokes, starting at the outside of the stain and working toward the center so you don’t leave a ring.
  3. Blot with a clean, absorbent cloth to lift the loosened soil.
  4. Let the fabric dry completely, then vacuum it.

Hair oil, lotion, leave-in conditioner and hairspray belong in the oil-based group. They tend to build up where the head and shoulders rest, so treat a darkened headrest or upper back as an oil stain, with the solvent method if the code allows it, rather than scrubbing it with soap and water.

Three rules apply to both groups. Several light applications beat one heavy one. Don’t rub hard, because Herman Miller warns that vigorous rubbing can damage the nap or break fibers. And never use hot water, which Herman Miller says will set the stain.

Methods to skip

  • Steam. Steelcase says not to steam clean or use other methods that soak or heat the fabric. On seating where fabric is bonded to molded foam, it warns that steam can melt the adhesive and loosen the fabric.
  • Disinfectants. Steelcase’s cleaning page says not to use disinfectants on fabric unless the fabric is specifically approved for them, because they damage most fabrics.
  • Leftover cleaner. Haworth points out that every cleaner, even a mild one, leaves residue that can harm the surface if it isn’t removed, usually with clean water. Haworth also notes that excess cleaning chemicals cause rapid re-soiling.
  • Rotary brushes and stiff bristles. See the vacuuming guidance above.

When to stop and call a professional

Herman Miller and Steelcase both send large soiled areas to a professional cleaning firm. Steelcase specifies one that uses a dry-foam upholstery shampoo with an immediate wet pick-up vacuum, which it says limits the moisture left in the foam. Call one too if a stain still resists after a few light passes, if the test spot shows dye transfer or a ring, or if the fabric is coded X and vacuuming is not enough.

Arm pads and the metal base need different cleaners from the upholstery. See the armrest cleaning guide for vinyl, polyurethane and leather pads, and the monthly chair maintenance checklist for the rest of the chair.

Sources

Sources checked October 3, 2026.